Friday, October 7

You, Me and Stress (Part 6)

Namaste pretty fellas!

Ready for gyaan session 6 by John baba and Anuja baby?
LOL.

This post's got some smart tips for building and nurturing your relationships… Happy reading!

- The greatest pain comes from withholding your love. We want our partners to like being with us, to feel safe, free and cherished in our presence. To reach this goal, freedom, acceptance, trust and understanding are vital.

- Many couples feel a heaviness in their lives because they believe they have to sacrifice themselves to please their partners. This attitude needs to change. Think of it not as a sacrifice, but as a way to be considerate towards your partner. She doesn’t mistrust or control you when you drive or make decisions, you just have different needs and thresholds. You needn’t stop driving fast completely, just slow down a little with her. This is positive sacrifice, that is worthwhile for both.

- Successful relations are those where people can discuss and resolve issues. Loving support, good communication and healthy compromise are what Mr. Gray prescribes. Coz when differences create distance, passion perishes.

(Wow, that’s a lovely line, eh? The last one I mean… I’m just too good ;-) Hehe…)

- Stress is the primary reason why people, especially couples, fight. And their volatility is expressed in markedly unique ways. Women become emotional and express their feelings and thoughts, while men get detached and rush to resolve the issue. Women tend to share and discuss, men rush to take action. Not surprisingly then, women appear overemotional, unreasonable and demanding to the men, and men are deemed arrogant, righteous and uncaring by the women. And then starts the fault-finding and name-calling. Such a simple flow chart!

What is of the essence, though, is that we are tackling and arguing about the main problem only for the first few minutes. Post that, we are actually fighting about the WAY the other person is fighting (getting emotional versus being unconcerned). The focus shifts from the point of concern to the partner – he/she becomes our problem! Convincing your partner to agree with your point of view can turn any discussion into a disagreement.

The antidote to this is effective communication and the maturity to stay on track and avoid the easy pitfalls. This might require you to take a time-out coz arguing further is only going to worsen matters. A woman talks more when stressed, causing a man to become further aggressive. (Remember all men can do is “fight or flight”?) When this happens, the guy starts attacking the woman by hurting her feelings and the woman continues to yak and complain. Basically the situation goes downhill at breakneck speed…

Talking is the best way to solve things on Venus, and walking away from a conversation or “taking a break / time-out” is a downright insult. While this reduces stress in a woman, it pushes the stressed man over the edge. Hence, a woman, for the benefit of herself and her partner, ought to talk to another woman (preferably not a family member) if she’s worried about something, release her frustrations and then talk more objectively to the man later, WITHOUT expecting him to respond like a woman!

To de-escalate a prevailing argument, a man should try to listen and a woman should appreciate the man for what he does well. Ideally, the couple should talk only about the problem, a woman should not talk eternally about her feelings and the man should not tell the woman how she is supposed to feel. Easier said than done huh?!!

- It is hard for a woman to remain open and receptive when she feels her partner doesn’t care, and it’s hard for the man to be supportive when he believes he’s being called “the bad guy”. Simply put, she wants to feel that she matters and he wants to be appreciated.

- Honesty does not mean that you lose patience, flexibility and empathy. Moreover, when your partner is upset, no amount of logical or legitimate reasoning will help. Knowing when to speak and when to hold your tongue is probably one of the most essential lessons in relationships. Hearing the other person out without offering solutions or passing judgement is often the best, most effective and harmonious way to deal with stressful situations. Else, set expectations and clearly state what your need from that discussion is… makes things easier for the both of you…

- Instead of becoming more sensitive, men need to become sensitive to the needs of women. This means considering her needs and not just his own. If a man is sensitive about his needs and feelings, a woman feels responsible and maternal towards him. A needy man is a huge turnoff to women.

Been there, done that. I come across as a smart, independent, intelligent woman so I’ve had men coming to me with all their troubles. I don’t mind, but when I become only the shoulder to cry on and abandoned when the guy goes sniffing for fun company, I object. I can’t behave like a mother with the one I love. I want to be taken care of, more than the reverse! So guys, learn to be a MAN in the real sense and stop wallowing and whining in front of your partners. Be strong and intelligent when you deal with people and situations. Don’t expect a woman to keep guiding you and then feel bad when she doesn’t respect you or look up to you as her saviour. Can’t have the pie and eat it too, right?!

- There are 14 common mistakes that men and women make in a fight, these are obviously two separate lists and quite elaborate. The ones that I nodded enthusiastically over are (from the women’s list) “how could you…”, using negative or always/never terminology, complaining than requesting, non-stop talking and comparison, digging out skeletons, and (from the men’s list) making condescending comments, interrupting her, tit for tat, and helplessly and forcibly agreeing with her.

- One thing that I found a little odd (and disturbing) was John Gray saying that it’s naive to believe that partners must share everything in order to be intimate. You don’t have to say everything that you think, do or feel, nor should you seek your partner to fulfil every need. There’s a reason that there are several people in your life, connect with them! This majorly went against my childhood belief, but with time, I’ve realised that it makes tremendous sense and reduces the friction in your relationship.

(P.S : Of course, you want to make an informed decision based on your relationship and your partner’s personality. These days men and women deviate so much from the set standard, that it’s hard to figure out whether these universal truths and recommendations are really accurate. I’ve met men who are more emotional than women, and women who are more independent and aloof than men. The learning never ends…)

And on a parting note, some food for thought…
- Sometimes, willingly or inadvertently, people use their emotional outbursts or the silent treatment to manipulate others. These are dysfunctional behaviours, not real gender differences. Beware and avoid them if you wish to share a fruitful, honest and effective bond with the person you love.


Let the love blossom!

Cheerio!
Princess

Saturday, October 1

What makes you smile?

I stumbled upon this question when I was having coffee with a friend the other day.

What happened was… I ordered a Warm Choco-Indulgence pastry and was visibly indulging in it.

Now, I’m used to having an affable fight with my companions over such delightful pleasures (desserts, hookah, chocolates) and therefore, it was no surprise when he didn’t and I was disappointed. I literally had to coax him into taking a bite, and he admitted he wasn’t crazy about chocolate.

So, I asked him “What do you like?”

He said “Everything”.

How I hate that answer. Everything, nothing and don’t know are the laziest answers to give. Either coz you can’t bother to elaborate, or coz you don’t ardently like anything, or more believably, you are yourself unaware of what makes you tick.

All extremely pitiable states, in my opinion.

I mean what is life and individuality if you don’t have the time or inclination to explore yourself?

How can you expect someone else to understand you if you are yourself blissfully oblivious to your likes, dislikes and preferences?

Anyway. To each one his own.

In order to rephrase, to clarify his perspective and aid his process of comprehension and self-discovery, I enquired, “What makes you smile?” and being a trainer that I am, went on to illustrate by giving a few hundred examples…

Long rides?

Rains?

Music?

Movies?

Gifts and surprises?

Hanging out with friends?

Books?

…

And it finally dawned on him… He slowly replied, “I like riding… but I prefer driving, though I can’t really drive despite having a car at home…”

Ahem.

No problem at all. Completely uncomplicated.

Duh !!!

Really… do you truly have no idea about what you like?

C’mon, teme… what makes you smile?

In the daily rush and monotony of life, have we forgotten what it is to smile for no specific purpose? Or like they showed in “Kal Ho Na Ho”, you only display your pearly whites when you have a solid reason to do so...

Get a life! Find something to smile about. Smile at everything. If nothing else, it at least makes people wonder what you’re upto!

I’m one of those blessed few (touch wood) who can smile at almost anything. In fact, holding my laughter is a bigger challenge on most occasions. I wave at a toddler and make funny faces, I smile empathetically when a colleague is looking particularly stressed or confused, and I smile politely at almost everyone. Doesn’t cost a penny! Makes both of us feel good.

Feels amazing when people walk up to me and say that my smiling face eases them of their worries and makes them feel lighter. Most descriptions for me begin with the word “cheerful”. And I take it as a huge compliment, considering how moody I can be…

Your task for the day - Smile. At the wind. At a passer-by. While driving. At the peon. As you exercise. At the world. Just smile. And let it reach your soul and eyes. I promise it will be one of the most beautiful and memorable days you live…

:-)

:-)

:-)


Cheerio!
Princess

Monday, September 26

But Why…

“But why should I lie?”

“That’s the way it is, beta. These things are just expected…”

“I still don’t understand. What’s the harm in telling the truth? No, I’m not saying that I’ve attended Saira Johal’s cookery classes. I’m ok with the guy’s family rejecting me for that. At least I won’t be part of a family with fake pretensions and expectations.”

“Ohho, this girl is so stubborn, Meena. It’s all your fault. With the kind of freedom you’ve given her, anybody would turn out this way.”

“Dad, there’s no reason to reprimand Mom. I decide what I say or do. And I’m not lying. Not to you, not to anyone else. I’m not ashamed of who I am. And I have qualities and talents that are considerably more unique and significant than some cookery class.”

“Beta, this is what is required of any decent girl in the community. You don’t really have to do anything, just say that you know how to cook and you’ve attended the classes. That’s it.”

“But I DO know how to cook. Just not the way Saira Johal does. And anyway, she publishes a book every year on how to cook various things. Not everyone in her class knows everything! No Mum, I’m NOT lying.”

“Fine. Do what you want. This is a very nice boy, and a respected family…”

“If they’re so nice and respected, then they might just accept me for who I am than for what I can prepare for meals.”


***

“Namaste. Did you have any trouble finding the house?”

“Yeah, the route is a little confusing.”

“Please make yourselves comfortable. Would you like some tea?”

“No, let’s see the girl.”

“Sure, sure. Meena, call Alvira.”

***

“So Alvira, what do you do?”

“I work as a banker with FCHS.”

“What kind of job is that?”

“I help people with their investments.”

“Okay. And do you know how to cook?”

“Yes.”

“Have you been to Saira Johal’s cookery classes?”

“No.”

“Ohh… what’s your best dish?”

“Pasta.”

“Ahem… what other hobbies do you have?”

“I enjoy swimming and travelling.”

“Ok… ok… Umm… anything that you want to ask, Vishal?”

“No, I’m all right.”

“Arre, don’t be shy, beta.”

Vishal and Alvira shared a quick, shy smile.

“I’ve been through this. I know how it is…”

Alvira looked gratefully at Vishal. He did not resemble his old-fashioned mother nor his goofy-looking father. His uncle was doing all the talking and making Alvira feel like an insect under scrutiny.

“Gosh,” Alvira wondered, “how do girls put up with this nonsense, several times over? I’m not doing this again… Papa can scream as much as he wishes…”

“Alvira, anything you want to ask Vishal?”

Slight nod of the head. No. Anything to get over this disgrace. Alvira couldn’t wait to end the agony. She could clarify all her questions later if the initial formalities went well between the families.

“Okay then, Bhai Sahab. We’ll talk again in a few days.”

***

Days turned to months. There was no communication. Would the situation have been different had Alvira agreed to her parents’ request about the silly cookery class?

Alvira couldn’t care less.

Though, she did contemplate over why families in the 21st century still believed in all this horse-shit… Would such certificates guarantee a happy, married life?

Then why…?

- Princess

Wednesday, September 21

A MiniWok to Remember




Great company always makes for excellent meals.

But if the food and ambience are pleasing as well, it leads to an altogether delightful experience.

Such is the way I’d summarize my dinner at MiniWok – The Oriental Kitchen.

Previously SMS with a fun attitude, apna adda in Model colony next to Om Super Market / opp Eden Court is now back in a completely professional aura. (Yeah, the one next to Symbiosis ELTIS / Distance Learning Centre)

That it’s owned by a close friend is one reason why the place is special to me, but even otherwise, I think MiniWok is marvellously conceptualized, designed and created.

They serve Thai and Chinese cuisine, but that does not stop previous regulars from dropping in asking for a quick bite. I guess this paves the way for MiniKadhai and MiniTawa. Serendipity, they say!

(Get those grey cells pumping, Dips. This could very well make you India’s top entrepreneur and restaurateur!)

MiniWok has a cozy and friendly air about it. It’s not too huge at the moment, but easily seats 16. The open kitchen is definitely one of their attractions. It’s clean and fun to watch. They also offer takeaway and have an extensive menu that caters to all taste buds – authentic and Indianized.

I loved the vast range of starters – veg, chicken, prawn, mutton; it’s got something for everyone, and could easily substitute the main course. I regaled my taste buds with Chilly Prawns and Mushroom Money Bags. While the MiniWok touts the latter as their signature dish, I was more impressed by the prawn preparation. The prawns were succulent and crunchy, and the spices and flavour were just right.

The Money Bags (called because they’re shaped thus), consist of chopped mushrooms in wontons doused in sweet, tangy sauce. For a mushroom lover like me, chopped ones don’t do justice, and so I fancied the Thai Chilly Mushroom more. Also try the Schezwan Babycorn if you’re here – it’s quite delicious and filling. Kung Pao Chicken and Egg Fried Rice followed, both steaming and yummy.

The portions are decent, and a meal for 2 costs between 600-800 bucks.

Desserts and drinks are yet to be added to the menu, and home delivery will start shortly.

All the best to you, Deepti Kasbekar!!! You do me proud, and I’m sure this is just the beginning…

Readers, do visit !!

Facebook link: http://www.facebook.com/groups/269564733062065/

And another: http://www.facebook.com/pages/MiniWok-Oriental-Kitchen/259460014087075

Love,
Princess

Friday, September 16

Get Leh'd !!!

Three weeks now since I returned from Ladakh, and the images stay imprinted on my mind and heart…

Did I tell you we stayed in a tent at Pangong?

I last stayed in one when I’d visited Africa in the year 2000. Y2K proved lucky for me! LOL.
Sweetwater Lake was the location in Kenya (lake then too!) and this time it was the Pangong Tso.

(Of course, between these two occasions I stayed in a tent when camping with some friends from school. Old Monks sports club or something, I think. Quite an unusual experience, given that I’m not one of those sporty, adventurous types.)

Pangong was quite chilly when we got there at dusk. And tremendously windy. Our fixed tents were shaking and making scary sounds, especially the rickety basin in the attached washroom that moved each time the wind shook its visible bottom. However, the bed and overall arrangements were excellent. Especially the attendants, food, service and dining room. I think Ladakh reduces your expectations from life and your dependence on luxuries. Commendable, eh, coming from me - the nakhrewali princess herself?!!

Electricity is made available by means of a generator only for 3 hours between 7 and 10 pm. Read, unpack, charge your phones and cameras - finish what you want between these hours or remain in the dark! There’s running cold water in the basin, but no tap for a bath. (Not that the bathroom is really one where you can bathe, it barely has space for the pot and the rickety basin stand.) If you’re really eager, half a bucket of hot water will be delivered to your tent each morning at 7 sharp. Take it or leave it!

When I woke the next dawn, I was a little bleary coz I hadn’t slept well despite the surprisingly unexpected warmth in the tent. Nervousness to blame, the tent being protected only by a zipper that anyone could open from inside or outside. Yet, I was thrilled to watch the sunrise when the Pangong changes all possible colours that can leave you awed. It’s a fantabulous place, awesome like no other. And a few kilometres away from habitation is the spot where the 3 Idiots climax was shot. Bliss!

The trip was almost about to end. And all of us were looking forward to the “Farewell Dinner with Chang” that is advertised by almost every tour operator in their itinerary. We thought Chang was some local celebrity or tribe. No way were we prepared for a mineral water bottle filled with a Limca-like liquid. Apparently, Chhang is a local booze made of fermented rice beer. As you all know, I like to try everything once, and Chhang was no exception.

Wish it was! It is revoltingly sour both in smell and flavor, and tastes rotten. Byuaaakkk!! That one sip, and I bid it adieu for life.

The last day was reserved for leisure and last minute shopping. The market is quite expensive and has little to offer in terms of variety. Though neither mum nor I are your regular female shopping freaks, yet we avidly bought gifts for people back home. No matter where one goes, it’s always nice to get a “I thought of you” present for your loved one. That’s how packets of incense, bags, local garments, postcards, keychains, and Buddhist souvenirs all found their way into our luggage.

The next morning brought mixed feelings. We were about to leave for home, and it was also Mum’s birthday. Life can’t be one long vacation, right? And this being a birthday gift for Maa, was doubly special…

A man with torn pajamas at airport did not figure in our itinerary, nor on the top sightseeing spots in Ladakh. I guess this was Leh’s farewell gift to us. ROFL. Unfortunately, I couldn’t click a picture so you shall be deprived of this extraordinary sight. Hehehe.

Well, enough jokes. What followed was one helluva tiring journey. I travelled no less than 12 hours - 8 in and around flights from Leh to Mumbai, and 4 in the bus from Mumbai to Pune. 3 take-offs and landings (the 2nd flight was a stopover) made my ears go for a toss, and I could not hear clearly for the next 48 hours, no kidding. I did enjoy watching Tum Mile on the flight though, quite an entertaining movie.

Being an organized and planned person, I always like to reach home before the weekend ends, so that the next working day is unhampered and ordinary. And that’s how it turned out for me. Monday was BAU, and life had almost returned to normal. Funny, eh? Time’s the best healer… Moves on as though nothing’s happened…

Sorting and uploading snaps was a herculean task though, coz I had taken well over 800 pictures and did not want to preserve more than 300 – you know how it is, the excitement of the moment, and then the pics lying forgotten 360 days out of 365…

Thank you for reading this, and being a part of my adventure. Ladakh is superrrr… A must visit if you truly are passionate about nature and travelling…

Go get Leh’d !! :-)

Blessed to have been,
Princess

Monday, September 12

Ladakh Ke Nazaare

Heya!

On with what we saw in Leh…

Well, one of the few things that most excited me, was that we were on NH1 (don’t ask me why, it’s just nice! National Highway 1… Ooohh, sounds yummy!!)

Magnetic Hill was wondrous – due to some gravitational and magnetic phenomena, the car automatically moves uphill when the ignition is off, when it should ideally do the reverse. We saw the ascent with our own eyes, and were left spellbound. How the hell is this possible? Let me know if you know :-)

We checked out the Hall of fame dedicated to various soldiers and regiments, followed by the Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, where Buddha was meditating and an evil being unsuccessfully rolled a stone downhill in order to crush him. Both quite interesting places, the latter made all the more notable as we had delicious boondi and a savoury puff in the langar… Hee hee!

Next in line was Spituk Gompa, a famous monastery.

Now here’s the thing about all these Gompa’s – every village/settlement/town has one important monastery with the same name as the village, and all these monasteries are more or less the same. You need to climb a flight of stairs and obviously this presents a dreamy view of the landscape. Then there’s a Buddha statue along with pictures of the famous Kushok Bakul Rinpoche (KBR, and you rightly recall that the airport is named after him as well). There will also be snaps of Baby Rinpoche – accepted as a reincarnation of KBR, and 21 idols of Tara or the female Buddha. All with a line of silver and bronze bowls of water in front as offerings.

There’s little else, no flashy or intricate stuff that makes most Hindu temples unique or legendary. Buddhism, I believe is all about simplicity, and they take this very seriously in terms of living, talking, eating and even praying. Even the music is non-aggressive and sombre. While that is all good, visiting a monastery soon becomes a predictable and boring affair. No offence, but if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all.

I’d also have to say the same about the palaces and museums. This includes the Stok Palace and Shey Palace. They’re not as majestic as the mahals in Rajasthan, and unless you’re a serious culture and history lover, you can guiltlessly skip these on your way.

What was distinguishing at Spituk Gompa, was a huge idol of Vajra Bhairav with bottles of McDowells and other alcohol (offerings to the Lord). We also drove some way to see the confluence of the rivers Indus and Zanskar. It’s a lonely desert-like stretch, and the chilled waters are used for rafting. Sindhu Ghat is another place we were taken to, and it’s quite a nice place too.

Other famous monasteries on our list were the Hemis and Thiksay and Diskit. The Diskit Gompa is in Nubra, and is noteworthy thanks to the 110 feet magnificent idol of future Buddha. He bears a striking resemblance to the Kalki avatar of Vishnu, if I might add. And the view is undoubtedly mind-blowing as expected.

Market visits were routine when we had a stayover at Leh. We snacked once at a Tibetan restaurant and dined on the last day at a popular restaurant called Summer Harvest, both near/in the market.

And how can I forget the prayer wheels located every few steps in ach town in Ladakh!

It’s said that you can reduce your sins by turning the prayer wheel in the clockwise direction. (Not that I have too many… LOL.) Therefore, the monasteries have endless rows of tiny and mid-sized prayer wheels with bigger ones at strategic points. I and mum even got a miniature one home to remind us of our awesome time there!

The tough bit is…
There are two actually…

One, in Ladakh, every second presents an overwhelming view. In a place like this, exactly how many photographs can you click? I had to reign in my enthusiasm and keep putting my camera back in its holder.

Two, when I travel, I like to name as many names as I can to listeners, readers and travel freaks. But when I asked names of places and peaks in Ladakh, they were too complicated to comprehend and pronounce so I had to stop asking! For example, never in my life have I heard or read about a river named Shayog that flows through most of the Nubra region. Even school textbooks never mentioned it, and you know how irritating and exhaustive those texts were! I did find something called Shyok and I wondering if that is what the guide pronounced Shayog…

So, pls forgive me for anything that I miss describing. It’s a tad intentional, coz I want to make these posts short and not give away details that you should check out yourself in Ladakh or on Google!

The highlights of the trip were certainly the Khardungla and ChangLa passes – the first and third highest motorable roads in the world respectively. (The second one is in Manali). The imposing Khardungla is to the north of Leh, built at 18380 feet, and ChangLa is on the way to Pangong to the east of Leh.

Oxygen is scarce at both these locations so you obviously can’t stay there too long. You quickly grab something hot at the frugal cafeteria (usually black tea and maggi), and visit the single monastery/temple if you wish before you descend to a more habitable height.

But what certainly took the cake was the Pangong Lake. It is delightful, for loss of a better word. It just leaves you speechless. It has all the shades of blue that you can imagine, and most that you cannot. For those who don’t remember, this is where the last scene of the Bollywood blockbuster 3 Idiots was shot. And the lake looks only half as captivating in the movie as it does in real. It makes you fall in love… with Nature, with God, with yourself… I’m gobsmacked! Check the snaps, and you shall be, too…

Apart from 6 nights in Leh, we also spent 1 night in Nubra and one in Pangong. The drives to these places provides several scenic views, most that look artificial and doctored in photographs. Like postcards. But they’re all real. They’re all fascinating. River, snow, sand, greenery – all in a single canvas, make you go quite mad and ecstatic. Sighhhh… Heaven on earth!

Nubra is at a lower altitude so it’s super hot during the day, but the evenings are pleasant. This is the only place where we desired and got a ceiling fan in our entire trip! What’s famous here are the Hunder sand dunes, where you can see and ride the two-humped camels.

Equally charming is the way to Pangong. We had an unforgettable lunch at a superb camp on the way where it started raining and we were pelted playfully with snow-like hailstones. To make up for the naughtiness, God also showed us 3 enticing rainbows. It was a day of surprises and wonders. Cute Himalayan marmots, black and white yaks and the first view of the Pangong Lake… What more can I ask of you Lord of Travel?!! You rock…

(Quick tip if you’re visiting this blog for the first time: the 2 posts below this will explain better what isn’t making sense to you here. Do read, and feel free to interrogate!)

More in my next post!

Till then,

Julley!
Princess

Wednesday, September 7

Glimpse of Ladakh

Julley, friends!

I’m back…

I begin this post with 2 assumptions:
1. You’ve read the post prior to this that will give you the background on my incredible trip to Ladakh
2. You’ve checked the yatra package that we opted for so that I do not need to detail the day-wise features of our sightseeing and schedule

On with the travelogue!

Last minute shopping and rushed packing was how we lived through the 2 days before our vacation was about to start. We’d been advised to keep warm woollens and good footwear given the unpredictable terrain and climate up north. And of course, my friends and colleagues had warned me to carry a good camera so that they could see Ladakh from my eyes… Fortunately for all of us, our Sony Cybershot cam did a stunning job in the hands of your truly :-)

(If you’re in my FB friends’ list, you should be able to access those snaps in the albums titled Alluring Ladakh and Breathtaking Ladakh. If not, drop me a line and I’ll have them made visible to you for a bit.)

Our bus ride from Pune to Mumbai was uneventful as was our flight from Mumbai to Delhi. Having started our journey from Pune at 9 am on Friday, I and mum had been travelling for roughly 10 hours by the time we got in bed at Delhi.

While Hotel Lohmod looks impressive on the website, the actual building is quite dingy and sinister. The only saving grace was they serve meals and offer free airport transfers. Anyway, we were too excited to be critical and demanding, not to mention tired. Besides, our flight was at 5 so we had to check out by 3 am.

All the exhaustion wore off when we caught our first glimpse of the snowy Himalayas. Milky-white mountains stretching as far as the eye could behold; the aerial view was a treat for the eyes. A spectacular sunrise, replete with pink clouds and virgin hills - my vocab not surprisingly failed me. Paradise sounds like a cliché but there is truly no other term that does complete justice to this abso-flipping-lutely mindboggling sight! The hues at sunrise and sunset, vibrant purples, bright oranges and fiery reds, mesmerising lavender and intense yellows. Like jewels in a priceless tiara, each so unlike the other…

You see swarms of frothy clouds walk and skip by in a straight line like orderly school-kids, and you watch some bigger clouds excitedly bustling past like rowdy teenagers about to meet their first crush. There are foamy mists above the skies engaging in their own games paying little heed to whether its noon or sundown. It’s dazzling, unforgettable and inexorable. All of us aboard the flight hastened to store these visions in our minds and lenses, we just couldn’t get enough… Such are the enthralling creations of the Almighty!

Landing in Leh is a feat of exceptional talent and bravado. To find your way amidst the mountains and manoeuvre a massive airplane safely to the lone runway, avoiding the sides of the hillocks and peaks and the gravitational pull of some magnetic ranges that could cause fatality… Hats off to the pilots and kudos to the engineers who built the airport. A job very well done!

Given that Leh is still not a very popular tourist destination yet at least for Indians, there are only 3 flights that operate between Leh and Delhi, all before noon. The airport is tiny (with only one luggage conveyor belt) and there are just a handful of tourists, mostly foreigners and locals.

I always wonder why Indians are so obsessed with going abroad (even to places as lame as Singapore) rather than exploring their own country that houses every possible environmental marvel. However, it is a boon in disguise, as it leaves the countryside clean and not very crowded. Only those that are highly enthusiastic or daring visit Ladakh, the latter often on bikes or jeeps from the Manali route, and the former, like us, fly in from the capital.

The entire region is sparsely populated, and civilization is concentrated in villages built in the valleys. This is markedly unlike Himachal where the mountainside is strewn with houses, as the mighty rivers flow in the ravines. Apples and apricots hang freely on wayside trees, and there are roses and colourful flowers everywhere.

Leh is the bigger district in Ladakh, (the other is Kargil to the northwest), has a decent market and other amenities. Electricity and other resources are not as much as concern here as in the other smaller hamlets. The most important thing you need to remember when you land is that it’s the easiest thing for a visitor to fall ill in Ladakh.

Exactly why relaxation and acclimatization is prescribed by every tour operator on the first day. Acute mountain sickness, as it is called, grips one and all in Ladakh. Symptoms include headache, dizziness, nausea, vomiting, nose-bleeds and the like. Mine seemed to be a ravenous appetite; I just couldn’t get enough to eat for 2 days! Also, considering you can get frostbite and sunburn at the same time here, you have to be extra careful and dress in layers, and of course, drink ample water.

We were booked at the Poplar eco-resort in an area called Shenam which is very close to the market, precisely on Fort Road. Understandably, the hotel gets its name from the towering poplars that adorn the campus. I wonder why the abundant apricot and apple trees were denied lending their name to the resort, considering the sweet, juicy fruits that they regale guests with! Or the numerous black-billed magpies that we saw any time of the day or night…

The cottages were modest and homely, the food appeared good (coz I was enormously hungry) and everything looked marvellous. They say beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. To me, everything was beautiful. Even the hammock that I almost tumbled out of while reading Secrets of the Nagas and ended up taking an unplanned siesta in, in the cosy afternoon warmth. The fluttering wings of a tiny bird broke my nap and I eased my aching joints out of the lovely pseudo-bed. It was quiet. And delightful. A great start to a terrific vacation!

Resources are meagre in this part of the country (as in most others). Meals comprise mostly a simple soup, potato and paneer, with dal and roti/bread. What sells here the most is Maggi and black tea. Hot water’s a luxury and there are fixed hours at a hotel where you can take a hot shower. Even drinking water is scarce; tour operators clearly state that they would ration one bottle of water per traveller and more can be bought. Of course, their suggestion is to drink lots of water in order to keep the body hydrated. So, we purchased cartons of mineral water bottles between the 4 of us – a young couple from Delhi were our co-travellers in this elegant land.

Mum and I hadn’t slept in two nights and hadn’t bathed in 24 hours, we desperately needed time out in order to prepare ourselves to enjoy our stay and travel in Ladakh. After popping in at Shanti Stupa that was on our itinerary for Day 1, we chose to postpone our visit to the market and retired to bed after a quick dinner.

Shanti Stupa, by the way, is a very pretty structure, with symbols related to Buddhism carved/painted on its walls. The scenery from this elevation is picturesque and the sunset (that we missed coz it was a little cloudy and we were a little late thanks to our driver Stanzing) is supposed to be outstanding.

Most people would think that spending 6 nights in Leh as we did is a waste of time. However, my perspective on this was that we needed to rejuvenate after the long drives for sightseeing and not-so-comfortable night stays at other simple hotels outside Leh. So, Leh became home that we returned to and began afresh from. Thus, sightseeing in and around Leh was also spread across 5 days, else 2 days is more than sufficient to explore this town.

What did we see in Leh over 5 days?

Come back in a bit for the answer!!

Till then,

Julley!
Princess

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